I just purchased at 94 Miata with a manual transmission. Since I haven’t
driven a stick for many years, I’ve managed to stall the car a few times this
week. And each time the car won’t start immediately (although it will always
start initially)…..this only happens when it stalls. All I can find on this
in the owners manual is a brief mention of having the clutch all the way down,
which I’ve done. Seems like after I play with the clutch, shift lever and key,
it finally will turn over. BTW, it’s not a battery problem because the dealer
put a new one in the day I bought it.
So I’m wondering if there is some odd procedure I"m not aware of or maybe
there’s another problem?
Thanks for any info!!
Steve
> I’ve managed to stall the car a few times this
>week. And each time the car won’t start immediately (although it will always
>start initially).
Try moving the key back to the Off position before restarting. This is
probably the culprit. Some cars (not sure if miata) will not restart without
returning the key to off before you try again.
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
Steve, I am not clear about what is happening when you attempt to start it
after the stall. Is it electrically dead, or does the starter engage but
the engine will not start?
Stevekg95 <stevek…@aol.com> wrote in article . Seems like after I play
with the clutch, shift lever and key,
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> it finally will turn over. BTW, it’s not a battery problem because the
dealer
> put a new one in the day I bought it.
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
>Steve, I am not clear about what is happening when you attempt to start it
>after the stall. Is it electrically dead, or does the starter engage but
>the engine will not start?
Starter does not engage……seems electrically dead. This has only happened
when the car has stalled…..it starts fine when I first start it.
Steve
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
Stevekg95 wrote:
> >Steve, I am not clear about what is happening when you attempt to start it
> >after the stall. Is it electrically dead, or does the starter engage but
> >the engine will not start?
> Starter does not engage……seems electrically dead. This has only happened
> when the car has stalled…..it starts fine when I first start it.
> Steve
I’m sorry for the presumption if I’m wrong…ya did say you were
learning how to use a stick…
Do you engage the clutch before turning the key?????
—
An…@bsrb.hp.com
remove the "b"s…I HATE SPAM!!!
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
>I’m sorry for the presumption if I’m wrong…ya did say you were
>learning how to use a stick…
>Do you engage the clutch before turning the key?????
Andy,
I’m not learning to use a stick, I just haven’t driven one for a few years.
But yes, I am pushing the clutch all the way down before trying to restart it.
After some experimentation today, it seems to start if I turn the key off a
couple of times. Obviously this isn’t normal, but it throws me because if only
does this when it stalls, not when starting for the first time.
Steve
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
Steve, I think you’re getting close. Have you deliberately turned off the
engine and tried it again immediately? I’m getting at "hot" operation
failure at the starter or the ignition switch itself.
Stevekg95 <stevek…@aol.com> wrote in article <
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> After some experimentation today, it seems to start if I turn the key off
a
> couple of times. Obviously this isn’t normal, but it throws me because
if only
> does this when it stalls, not when starting for the first time.
> Steve
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
In article <1998032721210301.QAA00…@ladder03.news.aol.com>,
stevek…@aol.com (Stevekg95) wrote:
>After some experimentation today, it seems to start if I turn the key off a
>couple of times. Obviously this isn’t normal, but it throws me because if only
>does this when it stalls, not when starting for the first time.
Miata ignition switches are not very robust. A heavy keyring can cause
enough damage to present the exact symptoms you describe. Not necessarily
the culprit, but something to think about. You could try bypassing
(hotwiring) the ignition switch and see if the starter works every time.
–
—
Lanny Chambers (la…@derived.com) St. Louis, USA
Visit the Hummingbird Page: <http://www.derived.com/hummers/>
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm
stevek…@aol.com (Stevekg95) writes:
>I just purchased at 94 Miata with a manual transmission. Since I
>haven’t driven a stick for many years, I’ve managed to stall the car a
>few times this week. And each time the car won’t start immediately
>(although it will always start initially)…..this only happens when
>it stalls. All I can find on this in the owners manual is a brief
>mention of having the clutch all the way down, which I’ve done. Seems
>like after I play with the clutch, shift lever and key, it finally
>will turn over. BTW, it’s not a battery problem because the dealer
>put a new one in the day I bought it.
Actually, the fact that the battery was changed recently COULD lead
it to be a battery problem. You changed a variable, which may not
have been a problem before. Since the Miata battery is in the rear,
connections to the starter may be a bit longer than average, meaning
a less-than-perfect connection at one of the battery posts could
lead to just enough power loss to cause trouble. Also, if the battery
was replaced with an old-style Miata battery (small & wimpy), rather
than the new-style (lead acid, FWIW, and almost as powerful as the
smallest lead-acid car batteries available at any auto parts shop),
low power there could lead to trouble. Even a battery perfectly
capable of running the stereo, interior lights, etc. can fail to
start the car.
In my own car, for a while, I had added a "clutch switch ignition
kill" type security device, and the simple added line resistance of
the extra 8′ or so of wire running from the clutch switch to the
hidden "security" switch & back was enough to cause starts to be
intermittent. Your car might have one of these type devices
installed. Simply reconnecting the clutch interconnect in the
original configuration cures the problem. As would, possibly,
upping the wire gauge on the clutch switch interconnect, but
it’s more certain that simply removing it would restore performance.
This "clutch switch ignition kill" would produce exactly the results
you describe: on an initial cold-start, it worked fine, but after
stopping somewhere, the car would not restart until after several
tries. I finally remembered that the troubles did not start until
after I’d added the switch, so I pulled it out.
I’ve done a bunch of other awful things to my car’s engine
which would cause a less-robust car not to start, but in the Miata,
ONLY electrical failures & weaknesses have actually prevented
brisk starts, every time – even with the ignition timing WAY out
of whack, spark plugs WAY beyond DEATH, a burned valve, a SC
with the vacuum circuits incorrectly installed, idle WAY out
of adjustment… starts every time. Sure, run & idle quality
can be & have been totally shot, but start troubles have only
been caused by the battery & that clutch interconnect switch.
Another FWIW: I run a 565 CCA battery. The biggest that fit
from the parts store where I got it. Have had zero problems
with it, where with that puny gel (or whatever, nitpickers know
what I mean) thing the car comes with caused failed starts
intermittently for about the last year I had it. The factory
lead-acid replacement is 375 or 380 CCA (I don’t recall exactly),
the original "gel" is a bit less than that (stated in units for
which I have never found a proper conversion factor, but it’s puny),
and auto parts stores’ batteries generally start at 400 CCA.
The original Miata battery is practically no more. Mazda now
is installing that 380CCA lead-acid as a replacement, and uses
it as original equipment. (Though there will be "gels" available
& installed until existing stock runs out.) How to tell which
one you got? The lead-acid has a list price of something like
$84, where the "gel" is about $135. I doubt there’s a dealer on
the planet going to sell you an $84 battery when they’ve got a
$135 one on the shelf that doesn’t work in any other car…
Comment by admin — February 27, 2010 @ 3:30 pm