Hi folks,
A few months back, my car had the old scrape-the-keys-along-
the-door gag done to the passenger’s side. (I was heartbroken
at first — but hey my baby’s tough and I love it just the same).
I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
thanks!
Mike
1991 Red A Package
license plate "RGHT NOW"
(a song by Van Halen which aptly describes the
feeling of owning a Miata)
——————-==== Posted via Deja News ====———————–
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Post to Usenet
Leaving the damage alone (paint was keyed) because filling it in with touch
up paint will make it more noticeable is correct; but, if the damage is
deep, then protecting the metal is more important (function over form here
Miata lovers). I would claim it under insurance as your Comprehensive
section will take care of it (minus your deductible) and can not be held
against you as a chargeable claim (i.e. no rate increase unless you make
claims all the time).
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Rexven wrote in message <69k18t$…@camel18.mindspring.com>…
>islan…@choice.net wrote:
>>Hi folks,
>>A few months back, my car had the old scrape-the-keys-along-
>>the-door gag done to the passenger’s side. (I was heartbroken
>>at first — but hey my baby’s tough and I love it just the same).
>>I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
>>confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
>>The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
>Any touch up paint will draw considerably more attention to the
>damaged area than simply waxing it and leaving it alone. Colored
>waxes, touch up paints, etc. never match the original paint and show
>up as a glaring attempt at a cover up. Your best bet is to wait until
>you can afford to repaint the car.
>How to remove Road Rage: Make everyone drive a Miata at least once a week!
>’93 Mazda Miata B-pkg w/mods (Project Miata)
>’93 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 w/mild mods
>To see them browse:
>http://www.mindspring.com/~vdragon
>Remove *nolamers* to e-mail.
islan…@choice.net wrote:
>Hi folks,
>A few months back, my car had the old scrape-the-keys-along-
>the-door gag done to the passenger’s side. (I was heartbroken
>at first — but hey my baby’s tough and I love it just the same).
>I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
>confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
>The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
Any touch up paint will draw considerably more attention to the
damaged area than simply waxing it and leaving it alone. Colored
waxes, touch up paints, etc. never match the original paint and show
up as a glaring attempt at a cover up. Your best bet is to wait until
you can afford to repaint the car.
How to remove Road Rage: Make everyone drive a Miata at least once a week!
’93 Mazda Miata B-pkg w/mods (Project Miata)
’93 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 w/mild mods
To see them browse:
http://www.mindspring.com/~vdragon
Remove *nolamers* to e-mail.
"Darrell Dacus" <darrell.ke…@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Leaving the damage alone (paint was keyed) because filling it in with touch
>up paint will make it more noticeable is correct; but, if the damage is
>deep, then protecting the metal is more important (function over form here
>Miata lovers). I would claim it under insurance as your Comprehensive
>section will take care of it (minus your deductible) and can not be held
>against you as a chargeable claim (i.e. no rate increase unless you make
>claims all the time).
The alternative is to use a good step-by-step method to ensure that
It’s a hell of a lot less cheaper (and
you don’t have any of that metal unprotected. A safe and easy way to
ensure this is by using the normal method of repairing oxidized paint
through the use of cleaner/prep, swirl remover, polishes (which 9 out
of 10 times make the blemish appear much smaller or in some cases
nearly invisible), a sealer/protectant, then a wax. This should be
done about every 6 months to the car regardless of whether you have
been keyed or not! (you DO love yoru car.. don’t you?? Well, DON’T
YOU?? You will now feel very guilty.. VERY guilty..) <g> Btw, I
bought my new Grand Cherokee V8 in July of ’93. 6 hours after
purchasing the truck it was keyed all the way down the passenger side.
Rather than cry (well, for more than 5 minutes) I figured I’d be
offroading it anyhow. I used the above method. This truck has been
through rivers, forests, brush, sand, etc. I have never had any signs
of rust or any further damage or peeling of the paint. We all know
that the Miata paintwork is far superior to that used on the Jeep, so
it should stand to reason that the method will work at least as well
on the Miata if not better!
less unsightly) than repainting or using a ‘paint by the numbers’
bottle.
How to remove Road Rage: Make everyone drive a Miata at least once a week!
’93 Mazda Miata B-pkg w/mods (Project Miata)
’93 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 w/mild mods
To see them browse:
http://www.mindspring.com/~vdragon
Remove *nolamers* to e-mail.
islan…@choice.net wrote:
> I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
> confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
> The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
Mike,
The name is "Classic Red", the paint code is SU. I suggest you get the
paint from a Mazda dealer for the best possible match (or from
http://www.roebuckmazda.com). It’s only a couple of dollars either way.
–
Reply to: eli at ve dot nu (that’s right, .nu!)
Eli Troychansky <taaIQT…@superlink.net> wrote:
>islan…@choice.net wrote:
>> I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
>> confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
>> The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
>Mike,
>The name is "Classic Red", the paint code is SU. I suggest you get the
>paint from a Mazda dealer for the best possible match (or from
>www.roebuckmazda.com). It’s only a couple of dollars either way.
There was an article in an old issue of Miata Magazine (don’t have
it available, sorry) that you take the cover above your gas cap to a
paint shop and ask them to mix you up a can of touch-up paint
if you want a correct match.
Leon
Leon van Dommelen I am not responsible for what I say.
http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~dommelen White 1996 PEP Sebring Miata: Bozo.
domme…@Zmiata.net Remove the "Z"s from my e-mail address.
Rexven wrote:
> "Darrell Dacus" <darrell.ke…@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> >Leaving the damage alone (paint was keyed) because filling it in with touch
> >up paint will make it more noticeable is correct; but, if the damage is
> >deep, then protecting the metal is more important
True, but the metal is galvanized, so protection may be as simple as a good coat
of a good water repelling polish (silicone, for example). I’ve had a crease
above the front wheel well of my ’91 since before I bought the car two years ago
(never had the wherewithall to get it fixed and painted), and the small amount
of bare metal there is still shiny and silver-colored. Unless the scratches in
your case were deep enough to penetrate all the way through the layer of zinc.
Eric Lucas
Well, I think I’ve been talked out of using touch-up paint. If any of
you get a chance, take a look at the stuff they have at
http://www.ultimatetouchup.com. Any comments?
I plan to keep Phoenix forever, so eventually I’m gonna want to give her
a new coat of paint. Do any of you have an idea of how much one would
expect to pay (Florida, US $) for an above average (not one of those 40
coat base, 40 coat clear jobs out of Lowrider Magazine!) paint job?
Also, a few (6?) dings would require removal.
I plan on doing a few exterior mods (speedster canopy, TSIs, Mud guards,
lip spoiler, Front air dam, rear side fairing) which will be painted at
the same time. I will most likely install the items first, in primer,
then have them painted with the car. Bad idea? Comments?
What can I say… I’m obssessed with this little car. Nick, you feel bad
about spending $13,000? I’ll do it over the next few years, no doubt in
my mind. Thirteen grand easy.
———-
Jason
’92 Miata – Classic Red – no-pkg… yet
"Phoenix"
nolamersvdra…@mindspring.com (Rexven) writes:
>islan…@choice.net wrote:
>>A few months back, my car had the old scrape-the-keys-along-
>>the-door gag done to the passenger’s side. (I was heartbroken
>>at first — but hey my baby’s tough and I love it just the same).
>Any touch up paint will draw considerably more attention to the
>damaged area than simply waxing it and leaving it alone. Colored
>waxes, touch up paints, etc. never match the original paint and show
>up as a glaring attempt at a cover up. Your best bet is to wait until
>you can afford to repaint the car.
Depends on if the scratch is through the primer or not. The
glaring stripe of rust will draw more attention than that touch-up
glop. Especially as the rust bubbles & blisters its way under the
surrounding paint…
And unless you can afford more than the $329(US) "special" repaint,
the repaint will draw more attention than the factory job. (I
know, my brother has a car with one of these – nice & orange-peely,
though an improvement over the Ford factory sunburned & peeling look.)
nolamersvdra…@mindspring.com (Rexven) writes:
>We all know that the Miata paintwork is far superior to that used on
>the Jeep, so it should stand to reason that the method will work at
>least as well on the Miata if not better!
You add the
, but just to clarify, you are being sarcastic, right?
The early Miata single-process paint is about the thinnest ever
put on a production car.
Later Mazda moved to a color-coat + clear-coat process, more in
keeping with what everyone expects car paint to be. But the
early models will peel, chip, and otherwise scratch right through
if you look at ‘em funny.
However, the upside is it saves something on the order of 5# of
indulgent, relatively non-functional deep-luster or something…
Zdomme…@removeZs.Zeng.Zfsu.edu (Leon van Dommelen) wrote:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
>Eli Troychansky <taaIQT…@superlink.net> wrote:
>>islan…@choice.net wrote:
>>> I went to Autozone for some touch-up paint, but I need
>>> confirmation — is the 1991 Miata red called "Sunrise Red"?
>>> The sticker in the door jam says SU RED (if I remember right).
>>Mike,
>>The name is "Classic Red", the paint code is SU. I suggest you get the
>>paint from a Mazda dealer for the best possible match (or from
>>www.roebuckmazda.com). It’s only a couple of dollars either way.
>There was an article in an old issue of Miata Magazine (don’t have
>it available, sorry) that you take the cover above your gas cap to a
>paint shop and ask them to mix you up a can of touch-up paint
>if you want a correct match.
Correction, it was a response to a letter writer complaining about
the poor color match of the Mazda touch-up paint, I think.
Leon
Leon van Dommelen I am not responsible for what I say.
http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~dommelen White 1996 PEP Sebring Miata: Bozo.
domme…@Zmiata.net Remove the "Z"s from my e-mail address.
jaso…@webtv.net (Jason 00) writes:
>I plan to keep Phoenix forever, so eventually I’m gonna want to give
>her a new coat of paint. Do any of you have an idea of how much one
>would expect to pay (Florida, US $) for an above average (not one of
>those 40 coat base, 40 coat clear jobs out of Lowrider Magazine!)
>paint job? Also, a few (6?) dings would require removal.
>I plan on doing a few exterior mods (speedster canopy, TSIs, Mud
>guards, lip spoiler, Front air dam, rear side fairing) which will be
>painted at the same time. I will most likely install the items first,
>in primer, then have them painted with the car. Bad idea? Comments?
If you’re gonna do a higher-dollar than "$329 special" repaint, I
wouldn’t worry about installed vs. not-installed on the items,
though it will come out better if they’re uninstalled at painting,
then added on (no mask edges around the add-ons, paint color goes
all the way under them). The body shop will probably do what they
need – and what you say they can afford – paint jobs can be as
cheap or as expensive as you want to make ‘em. They might just
pull the stuff off anyway, or leave it installed.
And, you might consider a slightly different shade of red. I had
a car that I had done in a stock Ferrari color. That red, well,
it defines red. I found this color because the guy doing the paint
on my car was working on an RX-7. The RX-7 had some add-on body
parts, which they did in this Ferrari color to kind of accent
different parts of the car. Well, the Ferrari color was so
overpowering, they ended up repainting the whole car in that color.
Yes, it’s bright, in-your-face red. Just-write-me-a-ticket red.
Downside? Red is among the fastest-fading of all paint colors,
and I’m sure a red as bright as this is just asking for fade.
But if you can keep it covered or in a garage, it’s worth thinking
about. Since you’re doing an entire repaint anyway, you could
create an even more outstanding Miata with a not-so-subtle color
change – without having to resort to metallic-purple, pinkish-pearl,
or other color so popular on lowered Civics…
Yeah… Ferrari Red is cool. I’d do that. But still… how much? Just a
ballpark figure! A grand? $1200? C’mon, somebody has to know.
———-
Jason and Phoenix
’92 Miata – Classic Red – no-pkg… yet
Fort Lauderdale, Florida, US
— Oneness between horse and rider –
I can’t see a decent job being done for less then 2K…I got my rear fender,
and drivers side door painted….and it cost me about CDN$400 probably be US$
400 as its a labour thing more then a materials thing. The paint shop I went
to has a sophisticated electronic paint matching system…and they were BANG
ON…I stared HARD and I could not see a difference between old and
new…amazing. I was so impressed I may get them to do the hood and right
fender this year.
Mark
Eric Witherspoon <gt98…@ix.netcom.com> wrote in article
<69s2ec$…@sjx-ixn8.ix.netcom.com>…
> jaso…@webtv.net (Jason 00) writes:
> >I plan to keep Phoenix forever, so eventually I’m gonna want to give
> >her a new coat of paint. Do any of you have an idea of how much one
> >would expect to pay (Florida, US $) for an above average (not one of
> >those 40 coat base, 40 coat clear jobs out of Lowrider Magazine!)
> >paint job? Also, a few (6?) dings would require removal.
Automotive paint jobs have tremendous variability as to cost. The
determining factors are first and foremost, the level of preparation. The
proper way to do it is very labor intensive, and would involve removing
many parts of the car. The cheaper way is to mask parts off … faster,
easier, but not as good. I have a 66 Mustang GT in the shop for a complete
redo, paint & top. The quoted price was "about $3,500". I would suggest
this is on the high end of the spectrum, with the $300 quickie at the other
end.
The other cost factor is the paint … are they putting on enamel or
polyurethane? Basecoat/clearcoat or just one coat? A friend had a 92 red
Miata repainted, with new white stripes. Little details include you
cannot feel the white stripe….the shop sanded the paint level and clear
coated the whole thing … beautiful job, redder than before, cost him
$1,850. Can you spend less? Sure. Can you spend more? Certainly.
One advantage to the Miata is that it is small, and you don’t (normally
anyway) paint the top!.
Your best bet is to talk to people about body shops in the area … some
dealers don’t do their own, and farm work out … who do they recommend?
Then go see what they are doing, and how the work looks to you. A good
shop will have a complete paint booth…the best one in town here (the one
that did my bud’s car) has a downdraft model with all incoming air
filtered and conditioned … warmed up in winter, cooled & dehumidified in
summer …
My main perspective is that I have painted several cars myself, and have an
appreciation for the work it takes, IF DONE PROPERLY. I don’t mind paying
for work, but I would hate like hell to pay a good price for shoddy work.
Its a real crap shoot … the more detective work you do, the better off
you are.
HP
Henry Payne wrote:
> The quoted price was "about $3,500". I would suggest
> this is on the high end of the spectrum, with the $300 quickie at the other
> end.
> …
> One advantage to the Miata is that it is small, and you don’t (normally
> anyway) paint the top!
The $300 special and painting the top reminds me of a bootleg concert tape of
Bruce Springsteen’s song "Growin’ Up". In the obligatory intro story, he talks
about Earl Scheib (they’re all over the US, right? not just Cleveland?) where
they’ll paint your car for $50, and if you leave the windows open and your
little brother in the back seat, they paint him for free….
Eric Lucas
In article <69vuv2$…@wellspring.us.dg.com>, Mark Orr <mark_…@dgc.ceo
.dg.com.no_spam> writes
>I can’t see a decent job being done for less then 2K…I got my rear fender,
>and drivers side door painted….and it cost me about CDN$400 probably be US$
>400 as its a labour thing more then a materials thing. The paint shop I went
>to has a sophisticated electronic paint matching system…and they were BANG
>ON…I stared HARD and I could not see a difference between old and
>new…amazing. I was so impressed I may get them to do the hood and right
>fender this year.
I would be very surprised if any professional paint outfit couldn’t get
a match that good these days, but a more taxing test is to look at it
under a sodium streetlight – especially if you can find an old low
pressure (bright yellow) one. Mercury vapour lights are pretty good at
pulling the variation between original and repainted panels out too.
These lights have very narrow spectral bands in which the paint colour
must match perfectly, rather than give roughly the right mix of colours
that daylight viewing would provide.
I would certainly look at any used car under such a light source to give
some idea of rework that might be otherwise difficult to spot before
buying it. Fortunately, dark winter evenings make this very easy to
achieve.
A cheap respray can cover a multitude of sins. :-(
–
Kennedy
Yes, Socrates himself is particularly missed;
A lovely little thinker, but a bugger when he’s pissed.
Python Philosophers (replace ‘nospam’ with ‘kennedym’ when replying)
Anyone know what wheels are on the yellow Miata coupe on the cover
of the Summer ’96 Miata Magazine (or any of the other magazines
that had the yellow coupe…)
It’s kind of a split 5-spoke (10 spokes in 5 pairs) "blades" kind
of thing, with wheel center covers.
TIA,
Eric
On 22 Jan 1998 00:59:26 GMT, gt98…@ix.netcom.com(Eric Witherspoon)
wrote:
>Anyone know what wheels are on the yellow Miata coupe on the cover
>of the Summer ’96 Miata Magazine (or any of the other magazines
>that had the yellow coupe…)
>It’s kind of a split 5-spoke (10 spokes in 5 pairs) "blades" kind
>of thing, with wheel center covers.
Hmm….well, I haven’t seen the magazine, but I have some suggestions
of wheels that look like that.
Fittipaldi Tubolare (not blades, really, more like 2 tubes next to
each other per spoke)
Borbet Type M fits the description really well.
Borbet used to make a couple more that looked like that, but I am not
sure if they still do. Try http://www.tirerack.com and look at the above
suggestions.
Osman Ullah
|=——————————————|
Georgia Institute of Technology, Atlanta, GA
http:///www.prism.gatech.edu/~gte212f
Osman Ullah wrote:
> Borbet used to make a couple more that looked like that, but I am not
> sure if they still do. Try http://www.tirerack.com and look at the above
> suggestions.
The wheels on the yellow M-coupe are made by ASA, which is owned by BBS..
Eli Troychansky <t…@saturn.superlink.net> writes:
>The wheels on the yellow M-coupe are made by ASA, which is owned by
>BBS..
Ok, on the ASA site they say these rims are mfg to tolerance of 1/100mm
(.0004"). They have a picture of them being inspected on a CMM, which
may be industry standard, but it’s still a pretty expensive and precise
way to go… Anyone who’s done any machining knows that .0004" is WAY
overkill.
Anyway, where can ASA wheels be purchased in the U.S.?
I found a place called JD Wheels that has ‘em. Anyone deal with
these people?