Is there a general consensus regarding tires…im keeping the stock alloy
spoke wheels ("14)…and need tire advice…are the Dunlop’s the correct
choice for sporting about…I will not be autoxing…just driving on
weekends etc…how about the 55 v. 60 or 65…? Do the larger numbers
indicate a wider tire..any preference for something a bit wider than the
55?
Thanks!
Noah
noaz…@aol.com (NoaZark) writes:
>Is there a general consensus regarding tires…im keeping the stock alloy
>spoke wheels ("14)…and need tire advice…are the Dunlop’s the correct
>choice for sporting about…I will not be autoxing…just driving on
>weekends etc…
I am very happy with the D60A2 on my 93. It has reasonable turn in
properties, but since I do autocross (on BFG R1 tires) I tend not to
sport around on the roads. The limit of adhesion, which means a
real chance of a spin, is more interesting and not done on the roads.
Note that I am posting from a place that got 9.8" of rain in June
and only gets snow every 10 or 20 years. Thus the rain performance
of this tire is what I was looking for, and it does that very well.
(Got a chance to test it on the autocross course when it rained
during setup. Quite nice.) It is also smooth at highway speeds.
>how about the 55 v. 60 or 65…? Do the larger numbers
>indicate a wider tire..any preference for something a bit wider than the
>55?
185/60 -vs- 205/55 or 195/55.
The first number is the width. The second number is the aspect
ratio (height to width). To keep the same radius you must reduce
the second number as you increase the first so you will normally
see them change at the same time. The 205/55 is close to the
same radius as the 185/60 (BFG molds the R1 so it _is_ the same,
because of its intended application on Miatas). The 195/55 is
somewhat smaller, changing the final drive ratio and speedo
calibration.
–
James A. Carr <j…@scri.fsu.edu> | Commercial e-mail is _NOT_
http://www.scri.fsu.edu/~jac/ | desired to this or any address
Supercomputer Computations Res. Inst. | that resolves to my account
Florida State, Tallahassee FL 32306 | for any reason at any time.
NoaZark <noaz…@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970704150600.LAA29…@ladder02.news.aol.com>…
> Is there a general consensus regarding tires…im keeping the stock alloy
> spoke wheels ("14)…and need tire advice…are the Dunlop’s the correct
> choice for sporting about…I will not be autoxing…just driving on
> weekends etc…how about the 55 v. 60 or 65…? Do the larger numbers
> indicate a wider tire..any preference for something a bit wider than the
> 55?
> Thanks!
Check http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html for tire size info.
Gary – my opinion is the Dunlops are a VERY nice street tire and you will
be very pleased with them. Stick to the stock width, and definitely
don’t go to a lower profile (like 55) if you value your kidney’s and
fillings. I’ve heard a lot of Miata folks are very pleased with the 65
series (up from the stock 60 series) because the "jiggliness" of the
Miata is much reduced.
jZ
Noah,
Here is a method that will cost you almost zero $ and may satisfy your
urge to modify your car. I
1) You can lower your headlight lid(s) and remove the plastic trim
behind it to let in cool air. I have almost a 1/2" gap on the driver
side lid. I’ve got to believe that that does nearly as much as a NACA
duct.
2) You can also remove the airbox on your car, grease the mating
surface of the aircleaner so that no particles will get by, and then
zip-tie your air filter to the lid. Sounds hokey, but it works and
costs nothing. you’ll also want to rotate the lid so that the filter
is facing away from the hot exhaust.
i did this to may car for the Maiat performance driving school and it
worked fine for me and sounded great!! I put mine back together,
though, because i run stock class autox.
let me know if you have questions — this was kind of brief but i have
to run.
paul
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
noaz…@aol.com (NoaZark) wrote:
>I have been polling in a few individuals in reference to their level of
>satisfaction in the purchase of their Jackson Cold Air Induction kit…i’m
>weighing the options myself at this time…i understand that most of the
>available methods result in increases in the top end rather than the lower
>end. The Jackson kit is just so incredibley expensive…i look at the
>parts they ship and wonder how they sleep at night charging $400.00 clams
>for stuff that could not possibly cost them more than $100.00
>tops!….This encourages me to think of other ways to accomplish the same
>task for less money…If that JCAI was about 1/2 the price i’d buy
>one…even though that still feels kind of high to me…The other options
>to purchase one of those NADA ducts that presumably permit cooler outside
>air into the engine compartment…i guess a nice filter replacement would
>help too…anyone have any experience comparing the two systems?…How
>about that turn signal air intake kit…looks a little funky…but if it
>works…Aside from those systems…does anyone have a preference for one
>over the other…v. doing absolutely nothing? I know a few of you out
>there are experimenting with home brew versions of devices that attempt to
>increase the amount of cold air to the intake. I’d love to hear the
>progress of those endeavours…Thanks
>Noah
noaz…@aol.com (NoaZark) writes:
>to purchase one of those NADA ducts …
NACA, the organization that broke the speed of sound, before
it became NASA, and after it designed the cowl used on almost
all rotary engine aircraft.
–
James A. Carr <j…@scri.fsu.edu> | Commercial e-mail is _NOT_
http://www.scri.fsu.edu/~jac/ | desired to this or any address
Supercomputer Computations Res. Inst. | that resolves to my account
Florida State, Tallahassee FL 32306 | for any reason at any time.
James, I think you mean radial engines for planes.
Anyway, the general consensus amongst people on the miata mailing list is
that the NACA duct lid, or any other venting at the headlight, actually
lets air out from under the hood. The easiest & cheapest way to get fresh
air under the hood is to remove the weather stripping between the hood and
the fire wall allowing air to get in from the high pressure area that is
the windshield cowl. If you wish to give it another area to escape, install
a vented headlight lid, which will let it out in a low pressure area, the
nose of the car.
It’s all to do with aerodynamics and high and low pressure zones. The top of
the hood (hood scoop, or louvered hood) or the cowl area (cowl induction
facing backwards) are the two best ways to get air in.
Regards,
Richard Dekker, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada, M-CLUB #90, MCofA #41997
Founder & President, Wild Rose Chapter – Miata Club of America
1990 MX-5 Miata – Mariner Blue with double white stripes & GReddy turbo
Team 1:1, 1:10, 1:18, 1:24, 1:60, & 1:87 Miatas
Jim Carr (j…@ibms48.scri.fsu.edu) wrote:
: >to purchase one of those NADA ducts …
:
: NACA, the organization that broke the speed of sound, before
: it became NASA, and after it designed the cowl used on almost
: all rotary engine aircraft.
I assume you mean radial engines (such as those used on US Navy
fighters in WWII), and not rotary engines (which I guess would have to
be turbo-[jets,fans,props])?
Without the aforementioned cowl, people were pretty much ready to
abandon radial, air-cooled engines due to the high drag generated by
the airflow over the cylinders required for cooling. With the cowl,
the US Navy used nothing but radial engines on its aricraft until they
made the switch to turbines. Air-cooled engines are much more robust
and low-maintenance under battle conditions. One bullet through the
radiator of a wet engine, and you don’t make it home for supper. This
is an Especially Bad Thing when you’re 100 miles out over the South
Pacific…
–
Grant Edwards
gra…@visi.com
In article <5pu5a0$9f…@darla.visi.com>, gra…@visi.com (Grant Edwards) wrote:
>I assume you mean radial engines (such as those used on US Navy
>fighters in WWII), and not rotary engines (which I guess would have to
>be turbo-[jets,fans,props])?
Yet farther off-topic:
A number of early aircraft (Sopwith Camel, etc.) had "rotary" engines. The
crank was fixed, and the entire engine (otherwise much like a radial) spun
around it. The prop was fixed to the crankcase. God knows why they did
this…or maybe all of them were British? <ducking>
Lanny Chambers (la…@derived.com) St. Louis, USA
Visit the Hummingbird Page: <http://www.derived.com/hummers>
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this….some great
ideas!!…i do appreciate them…!
Noah
Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction v. other methods
From: plk…@mindspring.com (Paul King)
Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 23:34:29 GMT
Message-ID: <5pmli0$bl1@camel1.mindspring.com>
Noah,
Here is a method that will cost you almost zero $ and may satisfy your
urge to modify your car. I
1) You can lower your headlight lid(s) and remove the plastic trim
behind it to let in cool air. I have almost a 1/2" gap on the driver
side lid. I’ve got to believe that that does nearly as much as a NACA
duct.
2) You can also remove the airbox on your car, grease the mating
surface of the aircleaner so that no particles will get by, and then
zip-tie your air filter to the lid. Sounds hokey, but it works and
costs nothing. you’ll also want to rotate the lid so that the filter
is facing away from the hot exhaust.
i did this to may car for the Maiat performance driving school and it
worked fine for me and sounded great!! I put mine back together,
though, because i run stock class autox.
let me know if you have questions — this was kind of brief but i have
to run.
paul
I would like to throw out an Idea that I’ve seen used in drag racing for
a while, and wanted to see if anybody might have done this to a car like
the miata. I think its called a cool can. Imagine a plastic bucket, about
the size of a large coffee can, that would fit in the motor compartment.
The bucket has a tube coiled around the inside, and in the bottom there is
a spigot. Now splice into the fuel system, and install this thing in
between the splice. Now what, you ask? Fill up the middle part up with ice,
to cool down the temp of incomming fuel. When the ice melts, just open the
spigot, or I suppose you could just keep it open all the time.
Also, for handling tips, buy a battery relocator kit and put the battery
on the pass. side, in the trunk. Of course, say goodbye to ever hauling
anything in the trunk again.
Sorry this is so long, but this is my first time on Miata NG’s
NoaZark <noaz…@aol.com> wrote in article
<19970709220000.SAA28…@ladder01.news.aol.com>…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this….some great
> ideas!!…i do appreciate them…!
> Noah
> Subject: Re: Cold Air Induction v. other methods
> From: plk…@mindspring.com (Paul King)
> Date: Sat, 05 Jul 1997 23:34:29 GMT
> Message-ID: <5pmli0$…@camel1.mindspring.com>
> Noah,
> Here is a method that will cost you almost zero $ and may satisfy your
> urge to modify your car. I
> 1) You can lower your headlight lid(s) and remove the plastic trim
> behind it to let in cool air. I have almost a 1/2" gap on the driver
> side lid. I’ve got to believe that that does nearly as much as a NACA
> duct.
> 2) You can also remove the airbox on your car, grease the mating
> surface of the aircleaner so that no particles will get by, and then
> zip-tie your air filter to the lid. Sounds hokey, but it works and
> costs nothing. you’ll also want to rotate the lid so that the filter
> is facing away from the hot exhaust.
> i did this to may car for the Maiat performance driving school and it
> worked fine for me and sounded great!! I put mine back together,
> though, because i run stock class autox.
> let me know if you have questions — this was kind of brief but i have
> to run.
> paul
Uhh…Jack, you may be gently corrected, and forgiven, since this is
your first time here.
The wizards at Mazda already thought of weight distribution, hence
the battery located on the passenger-side trunk floor.
And, say goodbye to carrying anything in the trunk? That’s why
some of us bought ‘em!
Anyway, the cool-can suggestion deserves a look (and try) by one of
our resident intake experts.
Are you still out there, Mark P.?
————
akira2787
Jack E. Purdy wrote:
<snip>
> Also, for handling tips, buy a battery relocator kit and put the battery
> on the pass. side, in the trunk. Of course, say goodbye to ever hauling
> anything in the trunk again.
> Sorry this is so long, but this is my first time on Miata NG’s
Miata batteries are already located in the trunk, on the passenger
side. What did you mean to say here?
In article <01bc8da4$516ecc60$34cb8dd0@jpurdy>, "Jack E. Purdy"
<XXX…@XXXX.XXX> wrote:
> Also, for handling tips, buy a battery relocator kit and put the battery
>on the pass. side, in the trunk. Of course, say goodbye to ever hauling
>anything in the trunk again.
> Sorry this is so long, but this is my first time on Miata NG’s
[SMIRK ALERT!]
Um…I was gonna comment on this, perhaps to disabuse the well intentioned
but obviously non-Miata-owning Mr. Purdy of the notion of carrying much of
anything in a Miata trunk regardless. But in a fit of goodfellowship, I
decided not to.
Maybe CRI will offer a kit to relocate the battery under the hood, for more
trunk space? <ducking>
Lanny Chambers (la…@derived.com) St. Louis, USA
Visit the Hummingbird Page: <http://www.derived.com/hummers/>
>Jack E. Purdy wrote:
> Also, for handling tips, buy a battery relocator kit and put the battery
> on the pass. side, in the trunk. Of course, say goodbye to ever hauling
> anything in the trunk again.
WOW! You must be the original owner of my Miata, as the battery is
already on the passenger side of my cars trunk. But I still have plenty
of trunk space, a lot more space than the saddle bags I’m used to on my
motorcycle anyway.