Hi,
I have a ’93 black and tan w/ 30k on it. Since new, the car seems to be a
little bit on the sticky side when shifting (especially when compared to my
old RX-7). I read a little while back about changing transmission oil?
How easily is this done, and how much oil is needed?
Also, I believe someone also mentioned that there was a service bulletin
stating that there was a problem w/ the shifter itself. How would that be
fixed?
Thanks!
Please send email…my news server is lousy.
–
Greg Gantzer g gantzer @ en.com
—Please remove the spaces to reply! Stop Spam!
Check out the Northeast Ohio skiing website!
http://www.en.com/users/ggantzer
Greg Gantzer <ggant…@en.com> wrote:
> I have a ’93 black and tan w/ 30k on it. Since new, the car seems to be a
> little bit on the sticky side when shifting (especially when compared to my
> old RX-7). I read a little while back about changing transmission oil?
> How easily is this done, and how much oil is needed?
1) Put the car up on stands (s/b level if possible)
Pull out the shifter unit – be sure to have a rag handy to catch the
2) Unscrew the drainplug, drain fluid
3) Unscrew the fill plug, run tygon/vinyl tubing (~4′ – I got some at
Home Depot) up from the fill hole past the exhaust into the rear of the
engine compartment. You will probably need to attach a funnel to the
top of the tubing
4) Replace the drain plug
5) Pour almost 2 quarts of Redline MTL into the tubing. In my case,
about 1/8 cup or less of fluid overflowed. Remove tubing and re-install
fill plug.
6) Unscrew and remove the shift knob (no, you won’t hurt it and yes, it
will come loose). Remove the ashtray compartment.
7) Remove the 5 screws holding the center console on (2 in aft
compartment, 2 under ashtray, 2 on outside forward edges), and pull
loose the gasket around the fuel/trunk levers at the top. Lift the
forward end, and pull the console forward while working the gasket
around the trunk/fuel levers (this is easier to do than it sounds) –
flip the console over onto the passenger seat. Remove the insulation
around the shifter.
7) Remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter boot to the transmission
tunnel. If the boot is intact, lift the edges up until you can get at
and unscrew the 3 bolts holding the shifter unit to the transmission
housing. If it is not intact, R&R it (remove and replace).
drips. Using a turkey baster, an eyedropper, and/or the aforementioned
tygon tube and your lungs, suck the fluid out of the turret. I had to
move the shifter socket around a bit to get the baster near the bottom.
I used the tubing to suck up the last bit, and a rag to mop up the rest.
9) Pour MTL into the top of the turret – I could only get 2/3 cup in,
but it is supposed to hold 9/10 cup or so. Replace the shifter unit
(you may need to smear oil on the ball/pivot, plus you will have to tap
the shifter into the socket as it will be full of oil – don’t mess up
the threads), 3 bolts, shifter boot, 4 bolts, insulation, console, 5
screws, gasket, and shift knob.
10) Lower car (remove jacks). Recycle oil. Drink beer.
Notes:
- I knew I had to replace my shifter boot, as I saw it was torn when I
was messing around with the radio (Thanks, Jeff Anderson), so I had one
ready. What I didn’t know was that the gasket/boot that is part of the
shifter unit itself was also torn apart. Currently, it is open and some
oil splashes out when I shift. Eventually I will replace it - if the
shift into second gets better (from the oil replacement), I will get a
short shift kit. If it doesn’t, I will get the replacement shifter per
the bulletin. Bill Cardell told me that none of the short shifter kits
incorporate the "improvements"(?) in the replacement shift unit.
– I ran out of MTL after I filled the transmission housing, and had to
re-order a third bottle before I could do the turret (3 weeks later).
Now I have an extra half-bottle, but at least I will have a bit extra
(in case) when I replace the shifter.
> Also, I believe someone also mentioned that there was a service bulletin
> stating that there was a problem w/ the shifter itself. How would that be
> fixed?
I don’t know, and frankly can’t imagine what was wrong with the shifter
unit that was changed to improve the "stickyness". I wish I did.
Anybody have any idea?
–
Owen Strawn
’92 Classic Red
"Michiko"
Thanks for the great instructions. I have MTL in the transmission but not in the
turret. (Rexven was nice enough to let me test drive his car so I could feel the
difference with MTL. I haven’t gotten around to the turret yet.)
I’d like to add a word of caution. It is best to partially unscrew the fill plug
first. If it won’t come out, at least you’ve got oil in your transmission until
you can figure out your next step. (Thanks to my friendly Maztech mechanic for
that tip.)
Owen Strawn wrote:
> Greg Gantzer <ggant…@en.com> wrote:
> > I have a ’93 black and tan w/ 30k on it. Since new, the car seems to be a
> > little bit on the sticky side when shifting (especially when compared to my
> > old RX-7). I read a little while back about changing transmission oil?
> > How easily is this done, and how much oil is needed?
> 1) Put the car up on stands (s/b level if possible)
> 2) Unscrew the drainplug, drain fluid
> 3) Unscrew the fill plug, run tygon/vinyl tubing (~4′ – I got some at
> Home Depot) up from the fill hole past the exhaust into the rear of the
> engine compartment. You will probably need to attach a funnel to the
> top of the tubing
<snip>
Hey Group, I got this in the mail, and responded as noted. Can anybody
help this guy?
> Owen,
> I seem to have a problem shifting from second or higher gear into first.
> will this fix noted above remedy the problem I’m having? If so, which
> part – the changing of the tran. fluid, or the oil around the shifter –
> will give me the best results for my particular problem? One or both
> procedures?
> Thanks in Advance,
> Alan Thompson
> 90 with no name
Alan,
I’m no expert – I just changed my trans fluid per the instructions I’ve
seen on the net. My shifter is still somewhat sticky going into second.
Every stick shift car that I’ve driven has been very difficult, if not
impossible, to downshift into first until the car is practically
stopped. If this is what you’re talking about, then you just need to
wait a bit before you shift.
Otherwise, my (completely uninformed) guess would be to check into the
clutch – is the fluid low? Note that you may have to actually open the
cap to see – the reservoir may get stained so that it looks full from
the outside when it is really empty. You may need to bleed/replace the
clutch fluid (I’m going to do this very soon, just on general
principles). Or possibly your clutch servo actuator lever is worn, like
the condition that Witherspoon described last week on the newsgroup.
What I’m visualizing is that the synchros are having a hard time
meshing, because the clutch is not fully engaged (disengaged?); either
due to a low fluid/air bubbles condition, or a worn actuator condition.
I would definitely recommend talking to Witherspoon on this one, if only
to rule out this possibility.
Look up the thread: "National backorder for Miata clutch slaves"
P.S. Be patient, (she or he) will tell you her (or his) name
—
Owen Strawn
’92 Classic Red
"Michiko"