I am considering purchasing a remote oil filter adapter kit for a 1996
miata. Has anyone in the group had success or failure with the kits?
Anyone want to recommend a manufacturer and distributor?
30
Jul
Remote oil filter adapters?
"William P. Bailey Sr." <v…@home.com> wrote:
>I am considering purchasing a remote oil filter adapter kit for a 1996
>miata. Has anyone in the group had success or failure with the kits?
>Anyone want to recommend a manufacturer and distributor?
I have the Brain Storm kit. Plan to install it later this Spring break.
I’ll post how it comes out.
There is some info in the product review section on miata.net but not
enough to make a decision about which kit to get. I got BSP since I
tend to be satisfied with their products. You could try e-mailing
the authors.
Leon
Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
—
Leon van Dommelen
REMOVE THE "z"s -> dommel…@zmiata.net www.dommelen.net
"EXIT THE INTERSTATES" (Jamie Jensen)
A friend of mine put the BrainStorm kit on his ’94 several months ago and has
had no problems with the kit. It is a solid looking piece.
Mark
In article <pNer6.318602$j6.44630…@news1.rdc1.va.home.com>, "William P.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Bailey Sr." <v…@home.com> wrote:
>I am considering purchasing a remote oil filter adapter kit for a 1996
>miata. Has anyone in the group had success or failure with the kits?
>Anyone want to recommend a manufacturer and distributor?
Thanks for the info. I have ordered the relocation kit and I’ll let you all
know how it works out.
<mndjo…@earthlink.REMOVEIT.net> wrote in message
news:10yr6.8511$6p5.745355@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> A friend of mine put the BrainStorm kit on his ’94 several months ago and
has
> had no problems with the kit. It is a solid looking piece.
> Mark
> In article <pNer6.318602$j6.44630…@news1.rdc1.va.home.com>, "William P.
> Bailey Sr." <v…@home.com> wrote:
> >I am considering purchasing a remote oil filter adapter kit for a 1996
> >miata. Has anyone in the group had success or failure with the kits?
> >Anyone want to recommend a manufacturer and distributor?
How do you install these doo-hickeys? I barely can touch my oil filter.
Exactly why I want to try relocating the filter! What a pain just to change
the oil.
"ALYSONSDAD" <alysons…@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010313203134.11817.00000505@ng-ft1.aol.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> How do you install these doo-hickeys? I barely can touch my oil filter.
Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things off.
Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
ALYSONSDAD <alysons…@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010313203134.11817.00000505@ng-ft1.aol.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> How do you install these doo-hickeys? I barely can touch my oil filter.
On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 02:25:50 GMT, "Michael Bradbury"
<mbradbu…@home.com> wrote:
>Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things off.
>Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
Speaking of oil pressure senders. Can I use an older miata sender on
my M2 without a guage replacment? The articles in miata.net allude to
that fact, but I’m not convinced.
I bought the miata.net suggested sender replacement from JC whitney
and I’d have to say it’s the cheapest pices of crap I’ve seen in a
long time. There’s no way I’m putting it on my car.
Sheldon
On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 03:23:17 -0000, Bryan
<fn…@grateful-SPAM.ME.NOT.net> wrote:
>Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
>> I bought the miata.net suggested sender replacement from JC whitney
>> and I’d have to say it’s the cheapest pices of crap I’ve seen in a
>> long time. There’s no way I’m putting it on my car.
>wow, sounds bad. I was about to order that thing.
I’ll mail it to you in exchange for something you don’t want of
similar value (~$20)…
I wouldn’t trust my engine to something that looks like it could fail
within minutes. You don’t want a an oil spewing hole in your engine,
especially one you paid for.
>so, what’s the next best quality pressure sender in the right
>resistance, etc, etc?
I’m hoping the early M1 sender will work without dash modifications.
I’d love to hear a yes or no on that one.
Sheldon
I HAD the link to the place to get the good ones, but can’t think who made
them! Bosch? VDO? awwwwww
There was a discussion on miatanet, that’s where I got the link. Try a
search
Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote in message
news:mjotat0i3k408t8vrv9g9uomq0361mkclj@4ax.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 02:25:50 GMT, "Michael Bradbury"
> <mbradbu…@home.com> wrote:
> >Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things
off.
> >Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
> Speaking of oil pressure senders. Can I use an older miata sender on
> my M2 without a guage replacment? The articles in miata.net allude to
> that fact, but I’m not convinced.
> I bought the miata.net suggested sender replacement from JC whitney
> and I’d have to say it’s the cheapest pices of crap I’ve seen in a
> long time. There’s no way I’m putting it on my car.
> Sheldon
No on the M1 working.
http://www.egauges.com/
Is the source of the VDO sending unit. Cost is around $40.
Tell JCW to take a hike!
Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote in message
news:m1stat8bqu1lkvndjpu64h6tde3p55639v@4ax.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 03:23:17 -0000, Bryan
> <fn…@grateful-SPAM.ME.NOT.net> wrote:
> >Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
> >> I bought the miata.net suggested sender replacement from JC whitney
> >> and I’d have to say it’s the cheapest pices of crap I’ve seen in a
> >> long time. There’s no way I’m putting it on my car.
> >wow, sounds bad. I was about to order that thing.
> I’ll mail it to you in exchange for something you don’t want of
> similar value (~$20)…
> I wouldn’t trust my engine to something that looks like it could fail
> within minutes. You don’t want a an oil spewing hole in your engine,
> especially one you paid for.
> >so, what’s the next best quality pressure sender in the right
> >resistance, etc, etc?
> I’m hoping the early M1 sender will work without dash modifications.
> I’d love to hear a yes or no on that one.
> Sheldon
http://www.miataforum.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003019.html
Is the original discussion.
Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote in message
news:m1stat8bqu1lkvndjpu64h6tde3p55639v@4ax.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 03:23:17 -0000, Bryan
> <fn…@grateful-SPAM.ME.NOT.net> wrote:
> >Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
> >> I bought the miata.net suggested sender replacement from JC whitney
> >> and I’d have to say it’s the cheapest pices of crap I’ve seen in a
> >> long time. There’s no way I’m putting it on my car.
> >wow, sounds bad. I was about to order that thing.
> I’ll mail it to you in exchange for something you don’t want of
> similar value (~$20)…
> I wouldn’t trust my engine to something that looks like it could fail
> within minutes. You don’t want a an oil spewing hole in your engine,
> especially one you paid for.
> >so, what’s the next best quality pressure sender in the right
> >resistance, etc, etc?
> I’m hoping the early M1 sender will work without dash modifications.
> I’d love to hear a yes or no on that one.
> Sheldon
On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 05:10:12 GMT, "Michael Bradbury"
<mbradbu…@home.com> wrote:
>http://www.miataforum.com/ubb/Forum6/HTML/003019.html
>Is the original discussion.
Thanks a bunch. I just read that whole thread, and it appears that
without needle adjustment the guage goes to zero when the engine is
hot. I’ll have to get an EDO sender and play with it.
Sheldon
Michael Bradbury wrote:
> Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things off.
> Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
And the knock sensor….
In article <mjotat0i3k408t8vrv9g9uomq0361mk…@4ax.com>,
Sheldon D. Stokes <sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
>On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 02:25:50 GMT, "Michael Bradbury"
><mbradbu…@home.com> wrote:
>>Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things off.
>>Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
>Speaking of oil pressure senders. Can I use an older miata sender on
>my M2 without a guage replacment? The articles in miata.net allude to
>that fact, but I’m not convinced.
IIRC, the articles indicate that the older sender requires the older
gauge. And there’s a bunch of plumbing work which needs to be done to
make the older sender fit.
—
Matthew T. Russotto russo…@pond.com
"Extremism in defense of liberty is no vice, and moderation in pursuit
of justice is no virtue."
On Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:51:57 -0700, Sheldon D. Stokes
<sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
I just put a new oil pressure sender in my 2001 LS today. I used the
VDO sender, which is way nicer than the JCwhitney one. It cost $34
from NAPA.
To see some pictures and a description of what I did see:
http://quadesl.com/miata.shtml
Sheldon
On Thu, 15 Mar 2001 21:47:13 GMT, Randy <r…@uearthlingu.net> wrote:
>Thanks for the great info and pictures. I too am concerned about this
>on my ’01 and want to make the conversion. I do have one question
>though, what is a "1/8-27 to 1/8-28 BPT converter"? I am assuming
>that it is the brass part on the VDO sender in your first picture,
>right?
Right, the sender has a 1/8 x 27 NPT thread on it, and your miata has
a 1/8 x 28 BPT. What a british thread is doing on a japanese car is a
bit of a mystery. After all, there is obviously some british sports
car design in there, but that’s taking it a bit too far. :)
So in order not to damage the threads, an adapter is in order.
Sheldon
Thanks for the great info and pictures. I too am concerned about this
on my ’01 and want to make the conversion. I do have one question
though, what is a "1/8-27 to 1/8-28 BPT converter"? I am assuming
that it is the brass part on the VDO sender in your first picture,
right?
On Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:21:27 -0700, Sheldon D. Stokes
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
<sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
>On Tue, 13 Mar 2001 22:51:57 -0700, Sheldon D. Stokes
><sto…@spinn.net> wrote:
>I just put a new oil pressure sender in my 2001 LS today. I used the
>VDO sender, which is way nicer than the JCwhitney one. It cost $34
>from NAPA.
>To see some pictures and a description of what I did see:
>http://quadesl.com/miata.shtml
>Sheldon
I installed the Moss oil filter relocation kit last night and it took about
two hours. It is really easy to install but after a couple of beers things,
are better if you go slow. Anyway, the kit seem just fine. However, I
would advise making sure the lines are not rubbing against anything under
the hood as I fear they will eventually leak if left to contact other parts
of the motor.
"Keksz" <ke…@starpower.net> wrote in message
news:3AAF5A6B.501FA715@starpower.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Michael Bradbury wrote:
> > Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things
off.
> > Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
> And the knock sensor….
"William P. Bailey Sr." <v…@home.com> wrote:
>I installed the Moss oil filter relocation kit last night and it took about
>two hours. It is really easy to install but after a couple of beers things,
>are better if you go slow. Anyway, the kit seem just fine. However, I
>would advise making sure the lines are not rubbing against anything under
>the hood as I fear they will eventually leak if left to contact other parts
>of the motor.
Then again, I spend only about an hour to install the Brain-Storm
relocated unit against the firewall, jack up the car, take off the
wheel, take off the 36 bolts holding the splash pan. Then I
discovered I had Superlube install a nonOEM oil filter last time,
since I was out of OEM ones. (First nonOEM in 74kmi). And of
course I did not have a filter wrench except the Mazda one, which
was much too large. And too tight for my fingers, even fortified
with a nonslip pad, and for poorly positioned pliers. Curses.
Need to do the whole thing again after I get a oil filter wrench
with a breaker bar. :(
>"Keksz" <ke…@starpower.net> wrote in message
>news:3AAF5A6B.501FA715@starpower.net…
>> Michael Bradbury wrote:
>> > Jack it up, put it on stands, get underneath, take a couple of things
>off.
>> > Might as well put the real oil pressure sender in while you’re there.
>> And the knock sensor….
Leon
Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
—
Leon van Dommelen
REMOVE THE "z"s -> dommel…@zmiata.net www.dommelen.net
"EXIT THE INTERSTATES" (Jamie Jensen)
"Leon van Dommelen" <dommel…@zmiata.net> wrote in message
news:qd3tbtsmtp7jefk88e3d52hqfdpehesnrt@4ax.com…
: "William P. Bailey Sr." <v…@home.com> wrote:
: … Then I
: discovered I had Superlube install a nonOEM oil filter last time,
: since I was out of OEM ones. (First nonOEM in 74kmi). And of
: course I did not have a filter wrench except the Mazda one, which
: was much too large….
On occasion, in the same situation with other cars, I’ve simply driven an
appropriate screwdriver into the body of the filter and used that to provide
the leverage to break it loose. It’s easy to remove the screwdriver and
turn the filter by hand after that.
Jerry & Serrano
> On occasion, in the same situation with other cars, I’ve simply driven an
> appropriate screwdriver into the body of the filter and used that to provide
> the leverage to break it loose. It’s easy to remove the screwdriver and
> turn the filter by hand after that.
you may have trouble getting the angle to hammer a screwdriver into a
miata oil filter, it’s tight under there. I’ve had that problem in the
past too, and I’ve used a big "C" clamp to crush the filter and spin it
off.
Sheldon
On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 04:37:34 GMT, "Jerry Houston"
<jerry.hous…@gte.net> wrote:
>On occasion, in the same situation with other cars, I’ve simply driven an
>appropriate screwdriver into the body of the filter and used that to provide
>the leverage to break it loose. It’s easy to remove the screwdriver and
>turn the filter by hand after that.
> Jerry & Serrano
Yeah, well an aquaintance tried that on his abused VW Rabbit, and the
filter ripped like the cheap thin steel that is was. Which left him in
an alley in Washington D.C. late Sunday afternoon with a car with no
oil in it, nor any way to add any oil to it. He came to me and said
"OK, now what?" Sorry Charlie, tow truck time. Not recommended by me.
Note–reply to: tshep1 at pipeline dot com
97 Montego Touring
92 Sunburst Yellow
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Shep <n…@void.com> wrote:
>On Mon, 26 Mar 2001 04:37:34 GMT, "Jerry Houston"
><jerry.hous…@gte.net> wrote:
>>On occasion, in the same situation with other cars, I’ve simply driven an
>>appropriate screwdriver into the body of the filter and used that to provide
>>the leverage to break it loose. It’s easy to remove the screwdriver and
>>turn the filter by hand after that.
>> Jerry & Serrano
>Yeah, well an aquaintance tried that on his abused VW Rabbit, and the
>filter ripped like the cheap thin steel that is was. Which left him in
>an alley in Washington D.C. late Sunday afternoon with a car with no
>oil in it, nor any way to add any oil to it. He came to me and said
>"OK, now what?" Sorry Charlie, tow truck time. Not recommended by me.
Actually, I think my filter is cheap yellow plastic. Pep Boys was
already closed when I reached them after work, (closing at 7?) but if
they don’t have a wrench that gets it off, my plan 9 from outer space
is to take the car to Superlube to have the oil changed and this
time give them a genuine Mazda filter. They tightened it, let them
(or whoever is there now) loosen it. Another crew educated about
the difference between finger tight and 100 ft lb. :)
Leon
Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
—
Leon van Dommelen
REMOVE THE "z"s -> dommel…@zmiata.net www.dommelen.net
"EXIT THE INTERSTATES" (Jamie Jensen)
In article <g7svbt0pk7dudi2dok5cl43ooc9vv1k…@4ax.com>,
dommel…@zmiata.net says…
> Actually, I think my filter is cheap yellow plastic. Pep Boys was
> already closed when I reached them after work, (closing at 7?) but if
> they don’t have a wrench that gets it off, my plan 9 from outer space
> is to take the car to Superlube to have the oil changed and this
> time give them a genuine Mazda filter. They tightened it, let them
> (or whoever is there now) loosen it. Another crew educated about
> the difference between finger tight and 100 ft lb. :)
Check and make sure that they put the drain plug back in before they
filled the sump with oil. Grab hold and make sure the drain plug isn’t
stripped from another hundred foot-pounds of misapplied torque.
They shouldn’t give those guys any tools at all.
–
Kent W. England
On 13 Mar 2001 00:35:24 GMT, t…@topdown.net wrote about How do you measure 0.8 quarts of oil?:
> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
Dipstick!
Since the oil remaining in the engine after it has ‘all’ drained out
is not known, just put in your 3.0 and then add a bit at a time
to get a showing on the dipstick at the level you want.
After you’ve done it a few times you’ll get a feel for how much you
have to put in.
It’s not an exact science anyway.
</Dave/Null
–
Take the Q from Canada to reply
(No political comments intented
I always put in 3 and a half quarts and then check the dipstick after waiting 20
minutes or so. It is always full at that point. Even though I let the car drain for
a long time, there is still some oil within the engine when the new oil is added.
Putting in exactly 3.8 quarts will probably give you closer to 4 quarts in the
engine. This won’t cause a problem, but neither will running a bit less than 3.8
quarts total as some range in quantity is allowed here.
As far as measuring 0.8 out of 1 quart, I would use an accurate scale and fill an
empty oil container until it weighed 80% of a full one.
Pat
’96M
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
t…@topdown.net wrote:
> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
> As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
> Well, measuring out 1.0 quarts is pretty simple, since it’s the contents of
> the entire bottle. For the last 0.8 quart portion, how do you measure to
> make sure you’re getting that exact amount?
> In the past, I’ve done this by guestimation. The side of the oil bottle
> typically has measuring points at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 quart points. So, I just
> put in the oil until it’s a tad below the 3/4 marker point. While I think
> this method is good enough, I wish there was a more exacting way to measure
> 0.8 quarts.
> Does anyone have any recommendations on this?
> Tim
> ————————————————–
> Tim Schmitt t…@topdown.net
> TopDown
> The best windblocker for your Miata.
> (That’s not marketing hype – it’s actually true!)
> http://www.topdown.net 206-222-8058
> ————————————————–
> —– Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the Web —–
> http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+ groups
> NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam. If this or other posts
> made through NewsOne.Net violate posting guidelines, email ab…@newsone.net
> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
I’d stick to what you were doing. This is not an exact science anyway. I have
Good luck though
always guestimated and never had a problem. The only way to be exact is taking
a measuring cup and poor the oil to the proper mark. In my opinion, not
necessary at all
Cissy
t…@topdown.net wrote:
> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
> As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
But that includes oil that did not drain out. Miata Magazine
recommended keeping oil at the max sign, whatever amount that may
require with your draining style. This to avoid lifter noise,
especially during AutoX.
Leon
Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
—
Leon van Dommelen
REMOVE THE "z"s -> dommel…@zmiata.net www.dommelen.net
"EXIT THE INTERSTATES" (Jamie Jensen)
One quart =two pints
Two Pints = 4 Cups
4 Cups = 32 Tablespoons.
32 Tablespoons = 96 Teaspoons.
So 0.8 Quarts
One Pint (0.5 Quart)
One Cup (0.25 Quart)
One Tablespoon (0.03125 Quart)
Two Teaspoons (0.02 Quart)
I Usually estimate the tablespoons and teaspoons.
P
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
<t…@topdown.net> wrote in message news:98jq0c$a47$1@news.netmar.com…
> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
> As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
> Well, measuring out 1.0 quarts is pretty simple, since it’s the contents
of
> the entire bottle. For the last 0.8 quart portion, how do you measure to
> make sure you’re getting that exact amount?
> In the past, I’ve done this by guestimation. The side of the oil bottle
> typically has measuring points at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 quart points. So, I
just
> put in the oil until it’s a tad below the 3/4 marker point. While I think
> this method is good enough, I wish there was a more exacting way to
measure
> 0.8 quarts.
> Does anyone have any recommendations on this?
> Tim
> ————————————————–
> Tim Schmitt t…@topdown.net
> TopDown
> The best windblocker for your Miata.
> (That’s not marketing hype – it’s actually true!)
> http://www.topdown.net 206-222-8058
> ————————————————–
> —– Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the
eb —–
> http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+
groups
> NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam. If this or other posts
> made through NewsOne.Net violate posting guidelines, email
ab…@newsone.net
LOL
How much longer is it going to take before we finally adopt the metric system.
Maybe after NASA loses another multibillion probe someone’s going to react.
Stephan.
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Peter Owitz wrote:
> One quart =two pints
> Two Pints = 4 Cups
> 4 Cups = 32 Tablespoons.
> 32 Tablespoons = 96 Teaspoons.
> So 0.8 Quarts
> One Pint (0.5 Quart)
> One Cup (0.25 Quart)
> One Tablespoon (0.03125 Quart)
> Two Teaspoons (0.02 Quart)
> I Usually estimate the tablespoons and teaspoons.
> P
> <t…@topdown.net> wrote in message news:98jq0c$a47$1@news.netmar.com…
> > How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
> > As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
> > Well, measuring out 1.0 quarts is pretty simple, since it’s the contents
> of
> > the entire bottle. For the last 0.8 quart portion, how do you measure to
> > make sure you’re getting that exact amount?
> > In the past, I’ve done this by guestimation. The side of the oil bottle
> > typically has measuring points at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 quart points. So, I
> just
> > put in the oil until it’s a tad below the 3/4 marker point. While I think
> > this method is good enough, I wish there was a more exacting way to
> measure
> > 0.8 quarts.
> > Does anyone have any recommendations on this?
> > Tim
> > ————————————————–
> > Tim Schmitt t…@topdown.net
> > TopDown
> > The best windblocker for your Miata.
> > (That’s not marketing hype – it’s actually true!)
> > http://www.topdown.net 206-222-8058
> > ————————————————–
> > —– Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the
> eb —–
> > http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+
> groups
> > NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam. If this or other posts
> > made through NewsOne.Net violate posting guidelines, email
> ab…@newsone.net
Just put ion all 4 quarts. It won’t hurt anything.
"Peter Owitz" <peterow…@home.com> wrote:
>One quart =two pints
>Two Pints = 4 Cups
>4 Cups = 32 Tablespoons.
>32 Tablespoons = 96 Teaspoons.
>So 0.8 Quarts
>One Pint (0.5 Quart)
>One Cup (0.25 Quart)
>One Tablespoon (0.03125 Quart)
>Two Teaspoons (0.02 Quart)
Hum. Tim wanted it exact, already being able to get close from
the 0.75 quart mark on the bottle plus one fifth.
>So 0.8 Quarts
>One Pint (0.5 Quart)
>One Cup (0.25 Quart)
>One Tablespoon (0.03125 Quart)
That is exactly 0.78125 quarts.
Add one teaspoon. (a teaspoon is by approximation 0.010416667
quarts.) Left is about .008333333 quarts. I know from my US cook
book that teaspoons are subdivided using the base 2 system like
inches. (1/2 teaspoon, 1/4 teaspoon, 1/16 teaspoon, 1/32 teaspoon, …)
Add 3/4 teaspoon. Left is 0.000520833.
Add 1/32 teaspoon. If you do not have a 3/4 teaspoon measure
but only a 1/32 teaspoon handy, no problem: just put in 25.)
Left is 0.000195312 quarts.
Hopefully Tim will agree that 1/32 of a teaspoon is a fairly
small amount. So at this stage I would recommend cheating
and add what looks like a 60% full 1/32 teaspoon measure. As
an initial approximation, maybe. Since I am starting to mess
up my math, say.
>I Usually estimate the tablespoons and teaspoons.
If you estimate the tablespoons, why not be exact about
the teaspoons? Sloppy. ;)
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
>P
><t…@topdown.net> wrote in message news:98jq0c$a47$1@news.netmar.com…
>> How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
>> As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
>> Well, measuring out 1.0 quarts is pretty simple, since it’s the contents
>of
>> the entire bottle. For the last 0.8 quart portion, how do you measure to
>> make sure you’re getting that exact amount?
>> In the past, I’ve done this by guestimation. The side of the oil bottle
>> typically has measuring points at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 quart points. So, I
>just
>> put in the oil until it’s a tad below the 3/4 marker point. While I think
>> this method is good enough, I wish there was a more exacting way to
>measure
>> 0.8 quarts.
>> Does anyone have any recommendations on this?
>> Tim
>> ————————————————–
>> Tim Schmitt t…@topdown.net
>> TopDown
>> The best windblocker for your Miata.
>> (That’s not marketing hype – it’s actually true!)
>> http://www.topdown.net 206-222-8058
>> ————————————————–
>> —– Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the
>eb —–
>> http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+
>groups
>> NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam. If this or other posts
>> made through NewsOne.Net violate posting guidelines, email
>ab…@newsone.net
Leon ;)
Bozo, the White 96 Sebring Miata .)
—
Leon van Dommelen
REMOVE THE "z"s -> dommel…@zmiata.net www.dommelen.net
"EXIT THE INTERSTATES" (Jamie Jensen)
Are those heaping teaspoons?
"Peter Owitz" <peterow…@home.com> wrote in message
news:Suwr6.30511$Ok4.3014550@news1.rdc1.ct.home.com…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> One quart =two pints
> Two Pints = 4 Cups
> 4 Cups = 32 Tablespoons.
> 32 Tablespoons = 96 Teaspoons.
> So 0.8 Quarts
> One Pint (0.5 Quart)
> One Cup (0.25 Quart)
> One Tablespoon (0.03125 Quart)
> Two Teaspoons (0.02 Quart)
> I Usually estimate the tablespoons and teaspoons.
> P
> <t…@topdown.net> wrote in message news:98jq0c$a47$1@news.netmar.com…
> > How do you measure out 0.8 quarts of oil?
> > As most of you know, the Miata requires 3.8 quarts of oil for the oil.
> > Well, measuring out 1.0 quarts is pretty simple, since it’s the contents
> of
> > the entire bottle. For the last 0.8 quart portion, how do you measure
to
> > make sure you’re getting that exact amount?
> > In the past, I’ve done this by guestimation. The side of the oil
bottle
> > typically has measuring points at 1/4, 1/2, and 3/4 quart points. So, I
> just
> > put in the oil until it’s a tad below the 3/4 marker point. While I
think
> > this method is good enough, I wish there was a more exacting way to
> measure
> > 0.8 quarts.
> > Does anyone have any recommendations on this?
> > Tim
> > ————————————————–
> > Tim Schmitt t…@topdown.net
> > TopDown
> > The best windblocker for your Miata.
> > (That’s not marketing hype – it’s actually true!)
> > http://www.topdown.net 206-222-8058
> > ————————————————–
> > —– Posted via NewsOne.Net: Free (anonymous) Usenet News via the
> eb —–
> > http://newsone.net/ — Free reading and anonymous posting to 60,000+
> groups
> > NewsOne.Net prohibits users from posting spam. If this or other
posts
> > made through NewsOne.Net violate posting guidelines, email
> ab…@newsone.net
How are you doing after this ordeal?
And how did the deer come out of this situation??
Just wondering.
Karl Kittler wrote:
<snippage>
> My 1990 beautiful red baby got hit by
> this deer. I think he was suffering from
> jealousy and some road rage…
> I was doing about 60, the headlights
> were up. The blasted animal smashed both
> turn signals, bent the hood enough to
> put a 1/2" gap on the passenger’s side
> between the fender and the now raised
> hood.
> Also, the passenger side headlight won’t
> go down. I haven’t dared to open the
> hood.
Ouch! Are You okay?
> If anyone’s been unfortunate as I have,
> would you answer me a few questions:
> First off, but least important, how much
> is it gonna run me? I have a $1000
> deductible.
The last time my Belle had a broken nose, it ran just under $2,000. That
included replacing the whole nose assembly, both parking light assemblies,
and one barn door, as well as all painting etc.
> Second, will my baby be the same
> afterwards with a good body shop?
If they do a good enough job. Make sure to check for hidden damage and get
it fixed the first time.
Good luck on whatever you decide.
Iva & Belle.)
"90B Classic Red.)
#3 winkin’ Miata
Sorry to hear of your misfortune. Not much you can do, though. I bought those
deer whistler thing a ma jigs. After opening package and reading the directions
stating for best results, place them on top of the hood I discarded them.
(apparently sticking them on the lower front bumper out of sight, though in the
airstream, will not work)
I’ve bagged two deer.(not at the same time)
Both times the repair bill was about $1700.00. (hood, lights, bumper) The body
shop I went to the first time was recommended by a friend and was excellent.
Unfortunately, the second time around the shop was no longer in business. My
friend recommended another shop, but the results were not as good. Had to have
the car professionally detailed to remove the overspray. (was too pissed to
take it back and worried that the shop might screw it up worse.) Looks good
now. Neither incident changed the driving characteristics of the car.
My wife tagged one in November. Did $2100.00 damage. Found a great body shop in
Southeastern PA. Don’t know your location so e-mail me if you need the name.
Good luck.
G. Lee
Too bad about your wheels and the deer – I guess the deer was a little worse
off. We haven’t got the deer problem here but we have millions of rather
large kangaroos which seem to really enjoy playing chicken with cars trucks
and bicycles. These guys seem to time it so they will be sure to get hit
and it’s no joke when it happens.
I know most of you Miata folks despise 4×4 vehicles but here in rural
Australia if you plan to drive at dawn or dusk and do over 30 kilometres an
hour then a heavy vehicle with a steel bullbar is the only real protection
there is against having an animal coming through the windshield. I have
seen quite a few of the whistle attachments they call Shoo Roo but I guess
it would be pretty difficult to know if it has prevented hitting an animal.
Hope you wheels get back to normal soon.
Marc
Karl Kittler <solit…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:3AAD94E5.4DBBB594@ptd.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> I know this is an all too common
> problem. I’m hoping someone who’s been
> through it might be able to help or
> relate his experience.
> My 1990 beautiful red baby got hit by
> this deer. I think he was suffering from
> jealousy and some road rage…
> I was doing about 60, the headlights
> were up. The blasted animal smashed both
> turn signals, bent the hood enough to
> put a 1/2" gap on the passenger’s side
> between the fender and the now raised
> hood.
> Also, the passenger side headlight won’t
> go down. I haven’t dared to open the
> hood.
> If anyone’s been unfortunate as I have,
> would you answer me a few questions:
> First off, but least important, how much
> is it gonna run me? I have a $1000
> deductible.
> Second, will my baby be the same
> afterwards with a good body shop?
> I know you’re not an insurance adjuster,
> and I’m not going to blame you if your
> wrong. I would like to know is it
> $200-300 or 2000-3000?
> Should I fix her and trade her in, or
> fix her and love her like I always
> have. And put those deer deterant
> thingies on. BTW do they work? Or I
> guess does anyone know they do not work?
> Lastly, I was really looking forward to
> putting a Simpson? Italia body kit on
> her, but first I have to sell my house
> and buy a new one. Has anyone hit a
> deer, or any other object for that
> matter and then moved on to body kits?
> I apologize for my questions being a
> little redundant.
> A very, very sad solitary.
> —
> "WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
> And apparently car, she’s got the taste
> of deer. I hope she doesn’t want
> seconds.
Deer + Miata = http://www.connect.ab.ca/~wildrose/events99/deerhunter99.htm
That was $6,500 Canadian (including a new top…deer’s hoof cut it).
Not me, but I know the guy. Car’s fine again…looks better than it did.
MG
"Karl Kittler" <solit…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:3AAD94E5.4DBBB594@ptd.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> I know this is an all too common
> problem. I’m hoping someone who’s been
> through it might be able to help or
> relate his experience.
Mark, thanks for the down under view. I’ll keep that in mind should I ever drive
your way at dusk. I am curious, are ‘Roos as defiant with motorcycles? I’ve
often thought of taking a trip to take a bike across your country. In December
or so.
I’m very thankful that deer didn’t hit me on my bike. Every situation I could
imagine seems to end bad.
> I have seen quite a few of the whistle attachments they call Shoo Roo but I
> guess
> it would be pretty difficult to know if it has prevented hitting an animal.
Hmm, maybe someone can say the don’t work. Right now, silence either means they
work or no one uses them.
Thank you all for your concern. I’m
perfectly fine. The deer, well, he was
still there this morning on the way to
work. However, he was not on the way
home. Either way, I’m assuming the worst
for the deer.
I was rather surprised, after the shock
and anger wore off that the air bag
didn’t go off. Then a little later, I
did the math, no exact figures, but came
to the conclusion that a 60, or even 100
lb deer at 60 mph is not equivalent to a
2000 lb car at 12 mph. Which is what
I’ve been told it takes to set off an
air bag. OTOH, the guy’s at the junkyard
say they "pop ‘em with baseball bats"
and remark that it’s rather cool. I’d
prefer to not find out.
After speaking with my Ins. Co. they
said I could open the hood, but not wash
the car. Ironically, it rained last
night. After close inspection, my
radiator is quite loose, there’s minor
damage to the AC cooler, which I can do
with out. My grill guard is shot. The
frame seems just fine. The stuff behind
the nose seems to have taken the brunt
of it. Which looks like it can easily,
but not cheaply be replaced.
I found out why the headlight won’t
close, the connecting rod came off the
motor. Also, the bugger pushed the
headlight in, so if it did close, it
would probably jam. The hood won’t
close, which worries me. But I’m also a
little relieved. Too long to explain,
and boring as well.
There’s quite a bit of fur right along
the line where the hood and nose meet.
Even after the rain.
MG:
My car looks nothing like that. Thank
God! However, it looks like
structurally, the car is sound. I had
the moose thought too, except, I was
thinking cattle. Either way, a ton’s a
ton.
I’m done rambling now. Thanks again for
sharing your not so great Miata stories
with me. I kinda expected to pay around
what you said you did. Now if only I can
figure out how to go back to Sunday and
change my deductible to $0.
One more question, am I right that Miata
hoods are aluminum? If so, are any
other parts that I should make sure I
get aluminum as well? Aftermarket is
fine, but the quality’s got to be the
same.
–
"WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
Venison burgers anyone? I’ve got plenty.
Just got finished talking with my ins.
co. They say $936. I’m going to get
another estimate. It just seems too
low. However, it’s close to what I
figured. I figured the Ins. Co would say
990 because my deductable is 1000.
I noticed some odd things in the
estimate. They say Blend often instead
of paint. Also, they say the hood is
repairable, which I don’t think it is.
Not for less than the cost of the hood
anyway. This is my first and hopefully
last claim. Did anyone else see this
kind of stuff?
–
"WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
>My 1990 beautiful red baby got hit by
>this deer. I think he was suffering from
>jealousy and some road rage…
Hey, have some respect for the animal…..your baby got hit BY a deer??
Sounds like the other way round. Poor fella probably never knew what hit
him….
Puf
I’d love to look at it that way. Really I would. My Miata, unlike when I
bought her is loud. Loud noises tend to scare animals away. Especially wild
ones. He had fair warning.
Now, I’d love to take the dumb animal argument as well. Unfortunately, in PA,
the average age of a deer at death is three years. IMHO, that’s not enough
time to learn to stay off of the black trails with the yellow stripe running
down the middle. So, they may not be dumb, but they are uneducated.
From a different perspective, the deer could have been suffering from Road
Rage. I don’t think he got that close to admire the gorgeous design of the
Miata.
And it’s not like I set out to get a deer. If that was the case, I would have
been driving the Honda. One very similar to my Honda was just purchased for
$900.
One more thing, I do have some regret. According to my beliefs, you must eat
what you kill. Or kill only in self defense. There’s no clause for accidental
death. I don’t have the means to butcher a deer, nor the space to store 20+
lbs of meat. Therefore, I was unable to eat it.
Remorsefully Yours,
Solitary
thepuf wrote:
> Hey, have some respect for the animal…..your baby got hit BY a deer??
> Sounds like the other way round. Poor fella probably never knew what hit
> him….
> Puf
–
"WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
These suckers are liable to jump in front of anything – I have had them jump
out of the bush when on my mountain bike! The best idea is to avoid travel
at dawn or dusk whatever you drive. In addition to roos we have: sheep,
emus, cows, and others roaming around the roads as many farmers graze their
stock on road verges when it gets a bit dry and the fencing is often less
then perfect on stations which can be many thousands of acres.
I would avoid December as this is the hottest part of our year in the south
and the "wet" in the north. Try April to around August. The dollar
exchange rate will mean you will get a budget holiday whenever you decide to
come over.
See ya,
Marc
Karl Kittler <solit…@ptd.net> wrote in message
news:3AAEE50C.4596027A@ptd.net…
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
> Mark, thanks for the down under view. I’ll keep that in mind should I ever
drive
> your way at dusk. I am curious, are ‘Roos as defiant with motorcycles?
I’ve
> often thought of taking a trip to take a bike across your country. In
December
> or so.
> I’m very thankful that deer didn’t hit me on my bike. Every situation I
could
> imagine seems to end bad.
> > I have seen quite a few of the whistle attachments they call Shoo Roo
but I
> > guess
> > it would be pretty difficult to know if it has prevented hitting an
animal.
> Hmm, maybe someone can say the don’t work. Right now, silence either means
they
> work or no one uses them.
Ya reely gotta send ‘em uneddicated dear ta skool ‘n git ‘em some
larning.
Nora and the Rollerskate
’99 silver, waiting for romp time
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
On Sat, 17 Mar 2001, Karl Kittler wrote:
> Now, I’d love to take the dumb animal argument as well. Unfortunately, in PA,
> the average age of a deer at death is three years. IMHO, that’s not enough
> time to learn to stay off of the black trails with the yellow stripe running
> down the middle. So, they may not be dumb, but they are uneducated.
I have Liberty Mutual and they pay almost everything for a deer hit.
They consider it an act of God and the deductable dosn’t apply. We have
been hit by several deer and they don’t complain. Just make sure you
tell them the deer hit you.
Dave 2000SE
Ha!!
NORA H E HAGUE wrote in message …
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
>Ya reely gotta send ‘em uneddicated dear ta skool ‘n git ‘em some
>larning.
>Nora and the Rollerskate
>’99 silver, waiting for romp time
>On Sat, 17 Mar 2001, Karl Kittler wrote:
>> Now, I’d love to take the dumb animal argument as well. Unfortunately, in
PA,
>> the average age of a deer at death is three years. IMHO, that’s not
enough
>> time to learn to stay off of the black trails with the yellow stripe
running
>> down the middle. So, they may not be dumb, but they are uneducated.
Hmm, an act of god? I thought thats what
insurance companies use to get out of
paying claims.
Yes, I did state the deer hit me. But
since he didn’t have any insurance, my
deductable applies.
–
"WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
Was it filed under collision or… uninsured motorist?
Stephan Guillou
96 Montego Blue
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -
Karl Kittler wrote:
> Hmm, an act of god? I thought thats what
> insurance companies use to get out of
> paying claims.
> Yes, I did state the deer hit me. But
> since he didn’t have any insurance, my
> deductable applies.
> —
> "WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"
Since the deer died at the scene, I had
it under collison. It wasn’t until later
that I had found the deer was
underinsured.
–
"WARNING: Armed with a dangerous mind"