I recently bought a 97 M version Miata in great shape, except for the back
(plastic) window is broken. Who makes the best replacment top? Should I get
another one with a plastic window or go for the glass one? Just need a
little advice for a newcommer to the Miata world.
PS I didnt think it was a "girlie" car.

Just wondering if the Miata drives ok in the winter??  Also, Can someone
tell me how much I should be paying for a 1990, 122,000km???

I am checking out 99-00 Miata’s and thinking about buying one to build
into an SSB SCCA National racecar.

My question to the group is how to determine whether the Miata’s I look
at have the Sport Suspension…which I believe are Bilstien shocks all
around and a stiffer rear spring rate.

Anyone know of a quick way to check/verify this, any visual appearances
or VIN numbers….for the Bilstiens when I go looking?/

Thanks!!

Jonathan "Box" Boxwell
www.boxracing.com

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Some people have quoted me 2-3 thousand…5-7 thousand and even 10….I live
in Toront, Ontario, Canada….what is a good price????

Why is the miata so much?? I can pick up a 1991 Civic with performance parts
for under 5000!!!!!

Can someone please help!

Thanks…..

Mat

Hi, I have a ’92 MPV V6, AT, 100k miles, and I think something has
gotten wet to make a sensor or something malfunction. When you start
from a stop, you don’t get full power, you still accelerate but slowly
and if you press the accelerator more and more nothing happens for a
few seconds until all of a sudden the RPMs run up and you accelerate
fast since you’ve got the accelerator pressed down farther than normal.
Once you’re going no problem, there’s no hesitation or slowing down or
anything like that. If you stop the car and it sits for only 10 or 15
min’s, then it starts back up and runs fine. If it sits a little longer
like an hr, when you re-start it then it chugs and wants to die out
unless you keep goosing the accelerator until it runs a few minutes and
then it’s fine, except for the low power and delayed acceleration.
Sometimes the check engine light comes on after it’s running from a
cold start after a few minutes, and when the light comes on, then it
has full power again and accelerates fine. The light goes off after a
couple of minutes and when it does, then the low power condition
returns. I’m wondering if anyone has an idea what might controls this
so I can check to see if the wiring to it is wet. The reason I say
something is wet is that I’ve had problems after driving through water
for a week or two, and then after that no problem anymore until I drive
through water again. I’ve already checked all the wires and dist cap
and those kinds of things and it doesn’t seem to be that. It seems to
be some kind of sensor or something that is malfunctioning and I think
when the check engine light comes on, it’s turning off so the engine
runs right, then when it goes back on it makes it lose power again. If
anyone has any ideas on what I could check or what might control or
cause this symptom if it were malfunctioning.

Thank you very much for in advance for any and all assistance.

Please reply via e-mail at opnupur…@hotmail.com

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Hi Kirk,

Thanks for the link to the fuel lid  (
http://www.mazdastuff.com/Store/product/view.cfm?ProductID=852 ).

Oregon doesn’t allow self serve fuel pumping.  Consequently I have to be
carefull since service station attendants are not as concerned for my car’s
well-being as I am.  They sometimes are sloppy and occassionally rough.

From the picture I can’t tell if the chrome pieces are formed sheet metal or
what might be 1/8" thick metal with rounded edges.
If there was a shot with the lid wide open, so that I could see the lid’s back
side, I wouldn’t be in such a quandry.

By the way, just how wide does the lid open.

Thanks,

BrianW
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I have a 94 Miata with the standard 1.8 liter engine. When driving for
extended periods in town or stop and go traffic I get a tapping noise
approx. 30 to 45 minutes will do. What I assume to be one hydraulic lifter
on the passengers side begins to tap. Changes with engine revs and does not
occur when cold starting.  Is this a common problem is it possible that
lifter is damage or has a blockage in some way. Once the noise starts it
does not go away until the car cools and again may not reoccur until I get
another traffic jam. Any suggestions.
Thanks
Black Betty wants your advice or the "B—-" as my wife calls her.

Hi,

This is a goofy situation that has me a bit confused.  I have a 1991 Mazda
Miata.  Well, if I sustain a constant velocity say 40 mph in 4th gear or
even a constant 55 in 5th, the check engine light will come alive.  However,
if I slack on the accelerator when the light comes on, it goes away until I
maintain a constant velocity again.  What gives ???

Has anyone had this problem before – if so, what did you find out ???
Please email me at:

jrhlasve…@hotmail.com

In advance, thank you for your help…

John R. Hamilton

Help,
91 Miata leaking from pass door, on the angled section of the door. (Not at the
top
of the window.) I probably need new weatherstripping. Can I replace it myself?

Also, when I apply the brakes I get a leak right from the top, on the drivers
side, where it meets the top of the door. Very annoying!  I believe the
weatherstripping is worn there also. Again, can I do it myself, and is Mazda
the only source for
parts??

Thanks,
Mark

Does anyone have the measurement for the window thickness on the
plastic/vinyl window on the M1 Miata in ml?
I am trying to locate a sheet of vinyl and I am not sure what thickness
I am looking for.
Thanks,
Pat
’96M